Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Mechanicum - Knights, and more...

While I've been waiting on the custom decals for my Heresy-era House Taranis, I've taken my Knight Paladin a little further. Of course, once I reach a certain stage with him I'll use the same custom decals, and then just need to build his power blade replacement for his Reaper chainblade. The base is the Knight base from the Tech Deck range by Dragon Forge Design.

A few folks have asked me about my metallics recently, in particular the base metals for my Knights' super-structure. Well the basic approach is this:

• Prime GW Chaos Black spray
• Heavy dry brush (with "Tank Brush"-sized brush) with Vallejo Game Color Tinny Tin
• Drybrush (with "Tank Brush"-sized brush) with Army Painter Gun Metal
• Wash with Army Painter Dark Tone
• Selectively shade with thinned washes of Vallejo Game Color Charred Brown
mixed with Army Painter Matt Black
• Highlight edges (as appropriate) with Amy Painter Gun Metal
• Highlight edges (as appropriate) with Army Painter Shining Silver

I hope that helps : )

For those who would like to get a closer look at how I do my metallics, I've been coerced into running two classes at AdeptiCon 2015. More details to come!

Another work project I've had on my painting table are a bunch of the fantastic Hell Dorado models from Cipher Studios. Much more information to come as this project nears completion : )



  1. Dave, what are you using for a 'tank brush' at the moment? I have been using Citadel's round blue-handed one (bought in something like 2006-2009) but it's worn out now, and I'm having difficulty finding an equivalent replacement (as I want a round one ideally, and Citadel no longer make this brush). If you have any recommendations, they would be appreciated!

    1. Try out their "large drybrush" I have just picked it up and it's great for large bases and models as it picks up enough paint without drying too quickly.

    2. I'm lucky enough to still have one of the GW Tank Brushes, which is my go to brush for this kind of thing. It is backed up by two of the GW Large drybrushes that Matthew mentions above. I'm sure there are art-store versions that can be purchased, I'm just not sure what they are. If anyone else has thoughts, please chime in : )

    3. Thanks for the suggestions, both of you. I would prefer a round brush but perhaps I will try the current flat Citadel one...

    4. I'd also prefer a round one, as I feel it's easier to get a solid coverage with less risk of streaking. Rest assured that once my current tank brush bites the dust, I'll be searching hard for a round replacement ; )

    5. Yes, that's my thoughts about the shape too. :)

      Privateer Press have a large round brush, and I've emailed them to enquire about size and stiffness, but did not hear back yet.

  2. Very cool! I really appreciate the step-by-step, as I would love to emulate the depth you're getting in your metals. The more I read your posts (and Zab's over at Almost Perftec) the more I realize I really need to add in 2-3 more stages to each color in my process to take my stuff to the next level.

    Starting with the tin basecoat really gives it a warmer tone overall than I find I get going gunmetal over black. An excellent tip, thanks man!

    1. Particularly with metallics, the extra layers and time are well worth it : )

  3. Dave,
    I'm extremely excited you'll be running a class! I'm actually going to adepticon 2015 specifically for the classes!!!

    What are you using for the sword? I've been trying to figure out a way to do a giant sword and board style knight for the templars. Figure I'll do the shield by massively increasing the size of the one on the gun, and reduce it's scale significantly. (short barrel battle cannon!)

    1. Hi Greg, see you in one of my classes then : )

      As for the powerblade, I'm planning something much less sword like and much more Castellax combat blade kind of thing, a nasty spinning disc : )

      For yours you might want to check out the blade from the Grey Knights' Dreadknight kit.

  4. Nice work on the Thallax style faceplate. Very cool.